Freezer paper + Silhouette machine = Awesome. Here is a great tutorial.
These are three shirts I made for the kids for a family zoo trip. Font is Rockbiter from SIL store, and all the images are from the SIL store as well. All fabric ink I use is Speedball - as far as I'm concerned, there is no comparison!
I need to experiment with and learn more about this process. I'm not convinced that the freezer paper is superior to a screen print (see my earlier posts). I've primarily noticed that it is difficult to evenly paint - at least for t-shirts - because the fabric stretches as you paint.
Pointers/Reminders:
- For shirts - always launder the shirt first. The fabric paint may not 'take' even if set on a new t-shirt.
- Follow the instructions about layout, shiny side down for cutting, etc. And double-check it.
- Come up with a system for the stray bits -- you'll lose them quickly if you aren't paying attention.
- When ironed down, the paper can still be pulled up inadvertently when painting. This is particularly troublesome for the 'stray bits'. I've pulled up a circle or two.
- I've only used sponge brushes, and tried both a daubing and brushing technique. The daubing technique has produced more stray-bit-disasters. So far I don't think either is superior when doing it carefully.
- I have small boards that I use under the fabric - I spray them with a repositionable adhesive and stretch the shirt best I can, and tape it down to prevent movement. I use additional tape all over the design to prevent spills or related clumsiness mishaps.
- Speedball ink that has dried but hasn't set can be washed out (see mishaps comment above). Ice it to lift and assure you don't heat set it. Then apply stain remover and wash as usual. I've been pretty successful using that approach.
- I've had the most luck (i.e., crispest lines) after waiting for the entire design to dry before taking off the paper. This also cuts back on the mishaps . . .
